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As the Church moves through the year, it provides many symbols to remind us of the significance of seasons and days. Color can be highly expressive and reflective of mood and meaning and colored vestments and hangings have been among the most prominent symbols used in many churches. However, as Percy Dearmer pointed out a good many years ago in his classic book, The Parson's Handbook, there is a great deal of misunderstanding, and sometimes even a misinformed dogmatism, about particular colors and color sequences. The aim of this article is to provide information about the history and meaning of the liturgical spectrum, particularly in Anglican use, and to encourage a practical and also creative approach to the use of color in divine service. At the
present time, the most commonly found color sequence is that used by much
of the Roman Catholic Church, with white, red, green, and violet as the
principal colors. For many years, this sequence has been the
dominant one, not only in the Roman Church, but in other Western churches.
There is substantial value in such a standardized scheme. It is
easily "read" by ordinary worshipers when moving to a new parish or when
visiting other churches. It helps to establish a setting for worship
that supports a common sense of meaning and does not distract from the
central action. |
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However, the modern Roman use is just one sequence and, in recent years, many churches in the Anglican Communion have revived other color schemes or portions of them, particularly variations on the sequences used in various English cathedrals and dioceses in the Middle Ages. In some cases, the purpose has been to establish a more distinct Anglican identity. In other cases, the purpose has been to renew and enrich the setting of worship and thus to freshen and enhance the worship itself. It should be clear that we certainly do not disparage the color sequence of the Roman use. It is, in fact, similar to the use of various English cathedrals in the fourteenth century. Furthermore, in small parishes with limited resources, a simple, standard color scheme is the best option and the familiarity and ready availability of the vestments in the colors of the modern Roman use recommend it. On the other hand, those same limited resources may mean that some flexibility in the use of color really could be useful. For example, what is to be done when the parish's only green chasuble finally gives up the ghost but there are no funds to replace it? Would it really be a crime to substitute the parish's rarely used red vestment, which is probably in near-mint condition because it has previously been reserved for Pentecost and a handful of feasts of apostles and martyrs?
At the other end of the scale, is it really necessary, if greater
resources are available, to limit the possible choices to a narrowly
defined color sequence? Undoubtedly, there are clergy and laypeople
who would welcome a change from the seemingly endless procession of green
Sundays. They might occasionally wish that the green chasuble would
wear out, or at least that some agreeable alternative might be found.
In the Middle Ages, when the cult of the saints dominated the liturgical
calendar, this was not an issue. It is sometimes mistakenly thought
that green was not used at all in medieval English churches.
Inventories of vestments contradict this error. However, it is true
that green was not used nearly as much then, due to the fact that the
feast of a saint so frequently took precedence over the ferial mass. |
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In any case, the medieval church took a much more fluid approach to the business of liturgical colors. The principles inherent in medieval color sequences were not always governed by particular symbolic characteristics that a color might be thought to represent. For example, red, the color reserved for feasts of the Holy Spirit and martyrs in the modern Roman use, was the usual color in many medieval English churches for the Sundays between Pentecost and Advent, not the green which has become so familiar in modern use. Although there were variations from place to place, the oldest known English uses consisted of just three principal colors: white, red, and blue or black. White was the festal color; either blue or black was the color for Advent and Lent; and red was the color for ferial seasons. As the notion of fixed color sequences began to spread, a variety of other colors were introduced. By the 16th century, inventories of vestments listed as many as seven colors which were commonly used, and there were actually more since certain colors (e.g., green and yellow) were regarded as interchangeable. |
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In fact, this principle is still implicit today. The stoles to the
left of this text both belong to sets of vestments that would be
regarded as "festal". This would probably be obvious with regard to the
white damask stole on the left with its blue and gold damask orphrey and
gold tassels. However, the primary material of the right-hand stole is a shade of
white that, in the traditional English use, might be regarded as more
Lenten than festal. Nevertheless, setting aside the obvious
fact that the colors of the orphrey and tassels are festal, the
determining factor in the use of this stole is the fact that the material
is raw silk--rough-textured, to be sure, but still too fine a material for
the penitential season of Lent. |
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In secular dress, there are similar conventions regarding color. For example, in our culture black is generally preferred to express sorrow and mourning. On the other hand, black is also regarded as particularly elegant on formal occasions of great festivity when a man's outfit would consist of a black tuxedo and a woman might opt for a fashionable black dress. In reality, the quality of the fabric and its ornamentation, and also the style or cut of the garment, are at least as important as the color, perhaps more so. And there is no reason why this may not be so with liturgical vesture, as well. Our survey of the liturgical spectrum is organized around the seasons and special days of the Church calendar. Traditional color sequences and their symbolic significance are presented here, together with ideas and suggestions for alternatives. We have foraged in sacristies, private collections of vestments, and in vestment catalogues (especially the catalogue of our friends at the Holy Rood Guild) for illustrations and will add more examples in the future as we find them.
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Advent |
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Lent |
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The most distinctively English color choices in the liturgical spectrum
are the colors used in Lent. The traditional English "Lenten array"
crossed most diocesan and parochial borders. No matter what the
color scheme was for other seasons, most English cathedrals and churches
quite literally "put on sackcloth", covering crosses and various
decorations in the church with a coarse, more or less colorless fabric
that was either painted or decorated in some other way with symbols of the
Passion of our Lord. Some churches went so far as to hang a curtain
in front of the altar, to veil it from the eyes of the faithful.
This custom originated in ancient times when it was deemed proper to veil
images of Christ as King or Victor, covering his glory during the season
that focused on his suffering and death. In time, it became the
custom even to veil images of the suffering Christ, for the Cross is the
sign of his glory, and also to veil other statues and decorations in the
church, creating a very dramatic setting for the penitential pilgrimage of
the faithful through Lent. |
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In the modern Roman
use, Holy Week begins with red vestments for the Liturgy of the Palms. While it
is desirable to use red vestments made especially for this occasion,
perhaps of a dark hue similar to the English oxblood, this is not practical in many parishes, so the festal
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While the trend in current
liturgical use is to eliminate the pre-Lenten season, the Sundays known as
Septuagesima, Sexagesima, and Quinquagesima, this season is not defunct
everywhere. Where it is still observed, the color is violet for
those following the traditional Roman use, and blue for those following
the English use. |
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Gold chasuble
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Reimagining the Festal Spectrum As noted above, in the medieval English use, one of the ruling principles was that the best vestments a church owned were to be used on major feasts, no matter what color they were. This is a principle that would seem to make a good deal of sense. It need not be taken to extremes. For example, the use of black on a major feast, no matter how rich the vestments might be, would be too great a departure from conventional expectations to be acceptable in most situations. On the other hand, too strict an adherence to that which is familiar and conventional can have the effect of robbing liturgy of its natural and appropriate drama. Furthermore, feast days, "holidays", are supposed to interrupt ordinary routines, to provide relief. But if every day is a feast day, the extraordinary soon becomes ordinary, and this means that ultimately the significance of the occasion will also be lost. In the Middle Ages, when the cult of the saints was in full flower, virtually every day was a feast day of some sort. In that context, the festal vestments would have been in perpetual use. Even allowing for the distinction between saints who were martyrs and saints who were not martyrs, red and white would have been the only colors in use outside of Advent and Lent. In smaller and poorer foundations, this almost certainly was the case. However, in cathedrals and other great churches, much greater variety of use was often found. Not only were there different vestments (i.e., different colors) for the feasts of martyrs and confessors (saints who were not martyrs), but there were distinctions for virgins and virgin martyrs, for matrons, for angels, and even more specific directions for particular saints such as John the Baptist (violet on the feast of his beheading because he went to Limbo) and Mary Magdalene (azure in some places, saffron in others).
The profusion of color was not limited to the choice of the primary color to be used for particular saints or classes of saints. There were also directions about combining colors in various ways. All Saints' Day was a very colorful day as each of the clergy and their assistants wore vestments of different colors, representing the whole spectrum of the company of saints. A similar mixing could be found on Corpus Christi when the priests and subdeacons wore white, but the deacons wore red, in imitation of the white bread and red wine of the Blessed Sacrament. Another variation found in some sequences involved the combinations of colors used in a particular vestment. For example, while white might be appointed for virgins, white trimmed with red would be used for virgin martyrs.
Finally, there was plenty of room for variation in the use of shades and
alternatives to the appointed colors. Black, blue, and purple were
regarded as virtually the same color and were used interchangeably. White
and gold were
What this all suggests is an opportunity for great freedom and originality in the use of color. There are other factors that should always be taken into consideration. Creative use of color should not be a distraction, and this means that the sensibilities of the local worshiping community must always be taken into consideration. The architectural setting in which a vestment will be used is also a factor, as well as the liturgical style of the congregation. Orange is likely to clash with a Victorian building, as well as with the taste of the congregation that chooses to worship there, but it would give a lively accent to a feast day in a church with simple appointments.
There should be room for unfamiliar and unconventional colors and combinations
of colors even in very traditional settings. For example, while the idea
may seem unorthodox to tradition-minded church people,
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The Latin word feria means a free day, one on which workers were released from work and were free to pursue private interests and activities. In other words, a feria was what we would call a holiday or a day off. When Christianity became the official religion of the state, a feria was a feast day, a holy day ("holiday") which the faithful would celebrate by attending mass. English fairs (feria is the Latin root of the word "fair") were held on such days and were important occasions in the life of many towns. Often, as, for example, at Glastonbury, these fairs were held in conjunction with a religious pilgrimage to a local shrine. In time, however, the meaning of the original word was turned upside down, at least in liturgical use. Ferias continued to be "free days" but instead of being feast days, they became days on which there was no feast, days on which the clergy were free of special liturgical obligations. Technically, Saturdays and Sundays are never ferias. Only weekdays on which there is no feast are properly called ferias, so the Sundays are not ferias. Similarly, Sundays may never be fast days. So, just as the Sundays in the season before Easter are Sundays in Lent, not Sundays of Lent, so the non-festal Sundays after Epiphany and Pentecost may be regarded as being Sundays in ferial seasons, though the Sundays themselves are not ferias. Thus, the color appointed on those Sundays is the same color as that used on ferias during the week. The modern Roman custom of referring to
ferial seasons as "ordinary time" is misleading. The term derives from the
word "ordinal", meaning "counted". The Sundays in ordinary time are
counted: the First Sunday after Epiphany is, in the Roman calendar, the first
Sunday in ordinary time. The Roman calendar does
not distinguish the Sundays after Epiphany and the Sundays after Pentecost.
Rather, it simply counts the Sundays of "ordinary time" and inserts them in
order whenever there is an opening in the calendar, namely after the Epiphany
and again after Pentecost. However, the word "ordinary" in normal English usage
is more generally understood to signify something that is mundane, a meaning
that can never be appropriate when referring to liturgical time. Liturgy always takes place in
sacred time, time which is anything but mundane. Thus, we prefer the term
"ferial" to refer to those seasons which are outside of the
great cycles of the
Incarnation and the Paschal mystery. |
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It is not unusual for a parish to own two, or more, sets of festal vestments--perhaps a gold set as well as a white set, not to mention the rarely used red set. But the same parish may own just one set of green vestments, in spite of the fact that it is the color that gets the most use, by far. Here is an area for a little extravagance or a little creativity, or both. Green comes in many shades (some which we like better than others, to be sure). One way of introducing some variation into the liturgy is simply to acquire an additional set or two of green vestments. One set might be used in Epiphanytide--perhaps a deep, warm shade of green for those months at the end of winter--and another set in summer, a lighter, more lively shade. Another idea would be to imitate our medieval forebears who were less dogmatic about color. As summer ripens, consider substituting yellow for green (assuming yellow has not been adopted as one of the festal colors of the parish). And, as summer gives way to autumn, yellow might give way to a deeper hue, perhaps an orange or rust. Tapestry fabrics offer another option. Orphreys are often made of tapestry but, if the material is not too heavy, it is also possible to make a vestment out of tapestry fabric. The point is to let the imagination work in the service of the liturgy.
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Black Days
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For many years, black was used at funerals and also on All Souls' Day, when we pray for all of the faithful departed. Later, black was replaced by a somewhat less mournful purple. Then the liturgical movement proposed shifting the emphasis at funerals away from death and focusing instead on the hope of the resurrection. Black was virtually banished from the altar and replaced with white. In retrospect, we wonder if that was a wise change in a culture which already does its best to deny the reality of death in so many ways. At many funerals, it seems that it is not the resurrection of Christ that is affirmed but the resurrection, indeed the canonization, of the recently deceased person. Christ is indeed risen, and that is our hope, pointing us toward the new life promised to all who are in Christ. But at the moment of death we need to acknowledge the reality of sorrow and loss, as well as the prospect of judgment. These things should not be covered over. The "sure and certain hope of the resurrection" is our consolation, but death is still real and should not be denied. Having said that, black does signify darkness and sorrow, so its use at the Eucharist, which is always, by definition, a celebration, seems somewhat discordant. Thus, in practice, many black vestments are softened by rich decoration of gold or silver, or other colors which point to the hope beyond sorrow and loss. We know one parish that owns a funeral pall that is black with green orphreys, and another that owns a pall that is entirely green. Black, which expresses the reality of the darkness of death, together with the hopeful green of continuing growth seems to us a rather potent symbol of our faith, affirming that when we die "life is changed, not ended; and when our mortal body doth lie in death, there is prepared for us a dwelling place eternal in the heavens."
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A
Sequence of Liturgical Colors for Modern Anglican Use
Advent and
Thanksgiving Day:
Feasts of Our Lord, the Twelve Days of Christmas
(except martyred saints' days), the First and Last Sundays after Epiphany, the Fifty Days
of Easter, and Trinity Sunday:
Pre-Lent (where it is still observed):
Lent:
Passsiontide (Palm Sunday up to the Vigil
of Easter):
Pentecost:
Saints Days and other Holy Days:
Ferial seasons (Sundays and weekdays that
are not Feasts, between Epiphany and Ash Wednesday, and between Pentecost and
the First Sunday of Advent):
Other occasions: A Simplification
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An Elaborated Sequence In the
Middle Ages, the dominance of the cult of the saints in liturgical life
of the Church and the fact that daily Mass was the norm, meant that
there was considerable opportunity, as well as latitude, for expanding
the use of color in the liturgy. The expansion of the calendar of
saints in modern Anglican usage, together with more frequent
celebrations of the Eucharist during the week in many places, provide
similar opportunities. What follows here is a compendium of colors
from various sources, including some new ideas. The
principal color for a season or day given in boldface will generally
follow the first sequence offered above. In some
cases a second color will be given in boldface, either as the color for orphreys, panels, apparels, linings, borders, etc.,
or as an equally
appropriate alternative. Other appropriate alternatives may be
given in italics. |
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Advent:
Christmas, Epiphany,
Easter, Ascension, Pentecost, and Dedication:
Christmas:
Easter, Ascension:
Christmastide
(except martyred saints' days and Holy Name):
Epiphanytide,
(except saints' days and the First and Last Sundays): Ferial
vestments:
Pre-Lent (where
it is still observed):
Lent
(Ash
Wednesday to the day before Palm Sunday):
Passiontide
(Palm Sunday to the beginning of the Easter Vigil):
Paschaltide
(the Great Fifty
Days of Easter): The use of festal vestments may be
limited to Easter Day, Ascension Day, and Pentecost, or may also be
extended to the
first seven days of the season ("Easter Week"), which are also
regarded as days of greater solemnity and have their own appointed
proper collects and readings. On all other days
in Paschaltide:
After Pentecost,
(except saints' days and the First and Last Sundays): Ferial
vestments:
Corpus Christi:
The Transfiguration:
Holy Cross Day:
St. Michael and All Angels:
All Saints' Day:
Saints:
All Souls' Day:
Other occasions:
Independence Day:
Thanksgiving Day:
Baptism and Confirmation:
At mass -
the color of the day; outside of
mass -
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